Pizza in Houston in more ubiquitous than BBQ and burger joints. The interesting aspect of pizza in Houston, should you have lived in NYC or Chicago, is that they don’t really understand either style. While often stellar, its typically some hybrid of NYC meets Chicago. Nothing wrong with that.
Star Pizza has been my ruler against which all other pizza is measured locally. However, Star is often insanely busy and parking has become an unruly, futile butter-churning episode around their limited space, so I’ve looked for contingency pizza.
Frank’s is a small slice of a place downtown near Market Square; a 2-story, shotgun configuration with a surprising amount of seating. It feels Brooklyn; minimalist-chic, cramped, loud, chaotic, largely a University of Houston kids with skateboards crowd. The smell of tomato sauce, oregano and pepperoni blots out your ability to think. And you’re happy about that. You don’t need to think when you can just park it upstairs and watch any one of the flat screens.
I wanted Tomato & Cheese, my partner in crime wanted the Supreme. We got the Supreme, it seemed a good way to end the discussion and really, it didn’t matter. The crust is thin but not NYC thin. Crispy on the bottom but still pliable enough to roll a slice up into a makeshift pizza wrap. Minimal sauce and cheese, heavier on the toppings. Don’t be fooled, though, the sauce here is potent with very ripe tomato and oregano, so a little goes a long way. The Supreme was well-balanced with the requisite veggies, as well as sausage and pepperoni.
Counter-order, number yell on completion. Worried about not hearing your number called while upstairs watching tele? Don’t. Counter girl got lungs. Medium pizza up in 15.
1 Medium Supreme, 2 St. Arnold’s Lawnmowers – $19
While Star is still my favourite pizza in Houston, Frank’s will get a return visit in the near future.
Dinner: 6 March 2014
Frank’s Pizza | 417 Travis | HTX 77002