Radical Eats

Friends with opposite eating habits agreed Radical Eats was a keeper. When militant vegetarians and junk-food addicts can agree on anything its cause to investigate. Glad about that.

Montrose area Radical Eats bills itself as a localvore restaurant, as much as it can be, which is totally reasonable since some things just don’t grow well here in the land of eternal summer and obscene humidity. Its also mostly vegetarian but there are a few carnivore options. It leans mostly to the Mexican side for its offerings but not exclusively.

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Atmosphere
Its a decent sized inside space, rustic and casual – definitely a place to come as-is and don’t expect a scene or anything close. If its a nice day take advantage of the outdoor patio facing lower Westheimer. The space was set far enough back from the street to minimize the noise but close enough to form a connection with the 24 hour energy of the neighborhood. The patio was vine covered for shade and the occasional whiffs of rosemary and oregano growing about the perimeter mixed well with the smells of homemade mole sauce from the kitchen.

Food
All wins with a small exception.

Obligatory and complimentary chips arrive with two sauces – one a mild manner red salsa, which became a mere wallflower to a raucous green sauce made from Habanero. If you like heat you’re going to burn through the green sauce, so start out asking for a second.

With a number of interesting Mex-Mex dishes I tried the Chicken Mole Enchiladas. The mole sauce was excellent; savoy and rich with subtle cinnamon and cocoa flavours. The chicken was moist and tender, however they had chopped it up finely and there was nothing to keep it together so after the first cut the enchiladas disintegrated making a mole stew. Still good however not visually appealing. Accompanying beans and rice were also good, albeit innocuous in comparison to the highly-spiced mole. I liked that the lot was served in its own cast iron skillet.

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One of our work lunch crew noticed the description of Diet Coke on the menu, it made me laugh. Not just Diet Coke, Horrible Awful Diet Coke, which you should not order. It goes on to talk about the evil ingredients in Diet Coke. Of course, they offer Mexican Coke, which you probably know already is made from actual sugar, not high-fructose corn syrup like most US Coke. I’m not sure Mexican Coke is really better considering the amount of sugar; the artificial colourings are the same in either version. At Radical you’re probably better off ordering an Agua Fresca – juice with sparkling water.

Service
Good. Friendly but not intrusive, order to delivery was 15 minutes.

Price
A little on the high side but me thinks you are paying for the ‘local flavour’ thing here. In any case, I would not hesitate to pay another $16 for the Chicken Mole Enchiladas.

Lunch: October 2014

Radical Eats | 507 Westheimer | HTX 77006

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