Stumbling about Midtown one day I ran across this newish Turkish döner shoppe wedged between other life maintenance venues near the Pierce Elevated. What initially caught my eye was the German umlat over the “o” in the name. A German-named venue serving Turkish items in Houston, Texas.
Odd enough for investigation.
Dögarz is a small space, I doubt 20 people could wedge in at once. I’ve been three times and the sit down crowd is consistently limited to a few suits on phone conferences and a few headphone-clad college students working on their laptops. Most patrons order takeaway. The neon apple-green walls and jet-black furniture give it a calming, modern feel. The open kitchen allows the smells of rotisserie grilled meats to permeate the interior, which frankly, smells so good it makes me want to order more than I need. But I don’t.
If you’re from some other parts of the Middle East, you might better know these as shawarma instead of doner. At Dogarz the menu is simple, doners: lamb and beef combo, chicken or fish. You can have those in a freshly baked pita or wrapped in lettuce. There are a few middle eastern pastries. Drinks are in the refrigerator off to the side. With the doner, you can get ‘spicy sauce’ and feta as options. I recommend both. The spicy sauce tastes of harissa and on the heat-meter weighs in less than Tabasco.
You’ll notice some ingredients in the doner seem out of place, most notable purple cabbage and corn. Me thinks they are mostly there for colour, definitely a win for presentation. However, they are in small amounts and I found the crunch of those items a good texture play with the soft pita and toothy, juicy grilled meats. I’ve had all three doner varieties and all were excellent.
Counter order, table delivery. Quick and accurate. For people ordering takeaway, 10 minutes max.
Lamb and beef doner with feta and spicy sauce – $10
I like Dögarz for its balance of quality ingredients, appealing presentation and quick delivery time. The other upside is that its a short walk from the Mc Gowen subway stop. For those compulsively tracking steps – 3000 round trip.
Lunch: February 2015
Dögarz Döners | 2101 Smith | HTX 77002