Sister and her family moved to Ohio quite some time ago. One of our first trips to visit them resulted in an addiction to this Cincinnati-born pizza joint. Sure, pizza is pizza but some that do the pie better than others; Dewey’s does it better.
Branches can be found all over the city but we continue to go to the Oakley Square location for its bohemian neighborhood feel. Its not a big space but they did recently renovate to add 8 feet to it’s width. The interior is pleasant and warm with comfortable tables and booths; definitely try to snag a booth. The glass front facing Madison Rd. creates a connection with the density of people combing the area’s quirky retail offerings.
That said, you should still be aware that the Cincinnati crowd descends early for dinner, like grandma early at 5p. The waiting list starts then and continues until about 730p.
People always ask me why Dewey’s is better. Its personal taste of course but to me it starts with the sauce which is bold tomato, very little salt and a hint of herb – basil and oregano. Its simple. Complex sauces lead to obfuscation of all other ingredients. Layers of complexity are added by the toppings, that is if you order one of the named combinations rather than build-to-suit. The toppings will always include something salty, vinergary and creamy. For example the Green Lantern includes Monz, Goat Cheese, Garlic, Pesto and Artichoke. No meat but ingredients work well together to create an incredible, toothy bite with a balance of seemingly opposing flavours.
To be honest, the other pull for me at Dewey’s is the seasonal Strawberry-Hazelnut salad. Also simple and delicious with just field greens, fresh strawberries, roasted hazelnuts, Gorgonzola and light hazelnut vinaigrette.
Excellent. Knowledgeable and helpful in case you go into overload scanning the number of choices available. Even at peak hours we have never waited more than 20 minutes for a pie, however you might wait 30 minutes to actually get a seat. Dewey’s has an open view to the kitchen where you can watch the hand-tossing and assembly of your pie.
Moderate. Salads $6-8. Large pies $15-20
If that’s not enough to make you try Dewey’s then you at least have to admire their many tag lines. My favourite is the homage they pay to The Ramones – ‘Hey Ho, Let’s Dough!’.
Dinner: June 2014
Dewey’s Oakley Square | 3014 Madison | Cincinnati, OH